A taste raised by Kitakami river
People catched Mozuku crabs since old times at the Kitakami river, flowing from north to south of Iwate prefecture. At the farmer’s restaurant Nukumori in Kawasaki Town, Ichinoseki city, you can enjoy the traditional taste of the crab soup. The soup has a dumpling called “Batto” in a regional dialect, and changes its name to “Suitto” “Hatto” “Hitatsumi” according to regions. Having a strong taste similar to Shanghai crab, the soups made of the whole crab gives us an impression like tasting the essence of the river. Mixed with the gentle sweatness of the vegetables, it provides a heartwarming flavour.
This “Batto zukuhsi plate” has covered the dumpling with various tastes. While enjoying the rich texture, you can taste the “Zunda” (green soybeans) “Azuki” (red beans), “Kurogoma” (black sesame), and “Juune” (wild sesame). ”
The dad catches, the mom cooks
The owner Ms. Hideko Chiba worked as a farmer for more than 40 years, and made the traditional crab soup occasionally at festivals and events. her cooking skills suddenly certified by Iwate prefecture as a “Craft of food”, at the age of 60, she decided to start a new farmer’s restaurant to spread the tradition.
In old times, the region were full with wheat fields, and there were even days to eat the soup three times a day. Because the dish was seasonal, she experienced many challenges to offer the crab soup throughout a year at her restaurant. The husband catches crabs at the nearby Kitakami river, and the wife makes the soup. Recently opening a second restaurant at a nearby road station, she puts effort in teaching the tradition to the youger generation too.
The place made me nostalgic, like coming back at my grandparent’s home. The crab soup I tasted in the middle of nature, the taste seemed to provoked memories of playing by the rivers, which I have actually never experienced. Being impressed by the owner’s energy and warmth, we went back home with a heavy belly.
Farmers Restaurant Nukumori
Location: 029-0202 Ichinoseki Kawasaki-cho, Usuginu shaped first volume 121
Phone number: 0191-43-2721
Hours: 11: 00-14: 005 people or more in the appointment
Access: Rikuchukanzaki a 10-minute drive from the station, 30 minutes by car from Ichinoseki bypass
*There is a satellite shop at a nearby Kawasaki road station (http://www.kawanoakari.com/index.html)
Interview & Photography by Ichita Komori & Remo Sugimoto
Edited by Ichita Komori